Bianyifang is one of Beijing's well-known old-brand restaurants.
Why this one
It was founded in 1416, the fourteenth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming: more than six hundred years of history, over four hundred of them before Quanjude. In 2008 its closed-oven roast-duck technique was listed as national intangible cultural heritage.
The house speciality is closed-oven roast duck, which together with Quanjude's open-oven duck is spoken of as the two jades of Beijing duck. The closed oven never sees an open flame: the duck is cooked by the retained heat of the oven walls, so the meat keeps more juice, is rich without being greasy, and the texture is finer and gentler.
Besides the classic duck there are newer lines: scented crisp ducks in tea, lotus and date versions, and a vegetable-scented crisp duck.
Side dishes run to mustard duck feet, salted duck liver, dry-fried meatballs, flame-seared duck heart and braised duck four-treasures.
Which branch
- Hademen (Chongwenmen)
- The old shop locals go to. Consistent output, the New World department store and other retail around it, and a good fit for a hosted meal.
- Qianmen Xianyukou
- The location is excellent — a few minutes on foot from the metro exit, convenient for visitors, and at meal times the queue moves fast because the tables turn quickly.
- Hepingli
- The value branch: a two-person set just over a hundred yuan, suited to a casual meal with friends.
- Daxing Xingchuang
- Friendly to family meals, with proper private rooms and dishes that suit both grandparents and children.
What it costs
- 1416 Roast Duck, the signature
- About CNY 198–254 for a whole bird, roughly CNY 140 per person.
- Scented crisp duck
- About CNY 254 for a whole bird, for anyone who wants to try the newer flavours.
Half a bird is available, which suits a small party.
Some branches — the Qianmen one among them — add a 10% service charge in the main hall and 15% in private rooms. Worth checking before you order.
What to watch for
- Crispness of the skin
- Closed-oven duck skin is not as crisp as open-oven duck skin, but the meat is more tender and juicier. Choose according to which you actually prefer.
- Shops around the sights
- A few group-buy funnel shops near the sights, or the odd branch, may give uneven service or inconsistent cooking. Prefer the older shops with a solid reputation.
- Check first
- Before you go, look at the reviews and set menus on the group-buying platforms so you do not make a wasted trip.