Wangshunge is one of Beijing's established chains, and the dish it is known for is fish head with pancakes soaked in the sauce. It has been in the city for years and now has branches in Beijing, Shenzhen and Amsterdam, cooking Beijing food and a newer version of it. It suits family tables, business dinners and meals with older relatives.
What to order
- Qiandao Lake fish head with pancakes
- Every table orders it. Bighead carp from good water, simmered slowly so the broth goes thick and savoury and the fish stays tender without any muddiness. It comes with hand-rolled flatbread or youtiao, which soak up the broth and go soft outside, chewy within.
- Beijing crisp roast duck
- Skin dipped in sugar, dissolving on contact, richly savoury; the meat firm rather than dry. Lotus-leaf pancakes, cucumber and sweet bean sauce alongside.
- Kung pao prawns
- Large prawns, very tender, in a sweet-sour sauce with a little heat that is judged well. For many people this is the dish they come back for.
- Milk-skin yoghurt
- Thick and full of milk flavour, with a layer of milk skin on top and a spoon of jam against the richness. A good way to end the meal.
Which branch
- Wangshunge Beijing food, Aoti
- The first branch in the country, tucked beside the east gate of the Olympic park and trading for years on word of mouth. Roomy, easy parking, good for a family table.
- Wangshunge Beijing food, Weigongcun
- A clean, contemporary Chinese room. The fish head is especially gelatinous here, and the sides — thin-skinned chilli with pork, king oyster mushroom baked with salted egg yolk — hold up.
- Wangshunge Beijing food, Wanliu Hualian
- On the fifth floor of a mall, with easy parking. Portions are generous and reliable, which makes it easy with children or older relatives.
- Wangshunge, Shenzhen
- At Sea World in Nanshan, by the water. Worth a duck if you are already there.
What people say, and what to watch
- On the seasoning
- Most people are enthusiastic about the fish head. Some find it salty, and standards vary between branches — occasionally a dish is badly timed or tastes pre-prepared. Read the recent reviews for the specific branch.
- Portion and value
- The fish head usually starts at two kilos, which is a lot. With a small table, order the smaller size or a set. The set menus on the platforms are considerably better value than ordering à la carte.
- Hygiene
- It is a large brand, but there have been occasional complaints about takeaway and about individual branches. Eat in where you can, and look at the branch's current hygiene score.
- Room and service
- The rooms are large and comfortable, many with private dining rooms, and the service is attentive — which is why it works for a family gathering or a business dinner.